Most couples spend weeks deciding on a diamond, then choose the metal in a matter of minutes. That is a shame, because the metal is the part of an engagement ring you will see and feel every single day. It sets the colour around your diamond, decides how the ring wears over the decades, and shapes how easily it sits beside a wedding band. Having worked in the jewellery trade for around 25 years, we can say with confidence: it is worth slowing down for this one.
Here is our honest guide to the four metals we craft every Wave engagement ring in: platinum, white gold, yellow gold and rose gold, along with the difference between 9ct and 18ct.
First, what do 9ct and 18ct actually mean?
Pure gold (24ct) is far too soft for a ring worn every day, so it is alloyed with other metals for strength and colour. The carat figure tells you how much of the metal is pure gold:
- 18ct gold is 75% pure gold. It has a richer colour, a satisfying weight on the hand and is the traditional choice for fine engagement rings.
- 9ct gold is 37.5% pure gold. It is harder-wearing than you might expect and considerably more affordable, which can free up budget for a larger or better-quality diamond.
Neither is "wrong". 18ct offers a deeper colour and greater prestige; 9ct is a sensible, practical choice that still looks beautiful. In the UK, every gold ring over 1 gram and every platinum ring over 0.5 grams must carry an independent hallmark by law, so whichever you choose, the purity is guaranteed.
Platinum: the quiet luxury
Our platinum rings are 950 platinum, meaning 95% pure. Platinum is naturally white, so it will never fade to a warmer tone, and it is noticeably denser and heavier than gold. Many people love that reassuring weight.
Platinum also behaves differently over time. Rather than wearing away, the metal tends to move when it is scratched, gradually developing a soft, satin-like sheen known as a patina. Some people adore this lived-in look; others prefer to have it polished back to a bright finish from time to time. Because it is so dense, platinum makes a superb choice for claws holding a precious centre stone, and it is a popular option for anyone with sensitive skin.
Best for: those who want a naturally white metal that will last for generations and are happy to invest a little more.
White gold: bright and versatile
White gold is gold alloyed with white metals, then typically finished with a thin layer of rhodium plating. That rhodium is what gives white gold its brilliant, mirror-bright finish, beautifully complementing a colourless diamond.
Over time, the rhodium gradually wears, and a faint warmth from the underlying gold can begin to show through. The fix is simple: a routine re-plating brings it back to its original brightness. It is worth factoring this occasional maintenance into your decision.
Best for: anyone who loves the crisp, icy look of platinum but would prefer a lighter ring or a more accessible price.
Yellow gold: the warm classic, back in the spotlight
Yellow gold never truly went away, but it has enjoyed a strong revival in engagement rings in recent years. Its warmth feels romantic and timeless, and it flatters many skin tones beautifully.
One tip we often share: if you have chosen a very white diamond, you may wish to set it in white metal claws on a yellow gold band. This keeps the diamond looking crisp while you still enjoy the glow of yellow gold. It is precisely the kind of detail we can discuss when designing a bespoke ring with you.
Best for: those drawn to vintage character or a softer, warmer look, and anyone pairing their ring with existing yellow gold jewellery.
Rose gold: soft, romantic and distinctive
Rose gold gets its blush tone from a higher proportion of copper in the alloy. The result is a gentle pink warmth that feels modern yet romantic, and it pairs especially well with elongated shapes such as ovals and pears.
Rose gold does not need re-plating, and its colour is part of the metal itself. As with yellow gold, you may choose white claws to keep a colourless diamond looking bright.
Best for: anyone wanting something a little different from the classic white-or-yellow choice.
Practical questions to ask yourself
How active are your hands?
If you work with your hands, garden or go to the gym, a harder-wearing alloy and a secure setting matter. Platinum and 18ct gold are both excellent for claws; our team will happily advise on the best combination for your lifestyle.
What about your wedding band?
Matching your engagement ring and wedding band in the same metal is the simplest route to a cohesive look, and it ensures both pieces wear at the same rate over the years. Mixed metals can look wonderful too, but it is worth deciding early so the two rings are designed to sit together.
Wave rings to explore in every metal
Each of the settings below is available in 9ct and 18ct white, yellow and rose gold, plus 950 platinum, and can be paired with a wide choice of centre-stone shapes. A few favourites to start with:
- Harper: a clean, classic solitaire on a slender 2mm band. It looks equally striking in rich yellow gold or crisp platinum.
- Iris: a slightly fuller 2.4mm band, giving a touch more presence on the hand. Lovely in rose gold with an oval or pear.
- Luna: another timeless solitaire, perfect for letting your chosen metal and diamond do all the talking.
- Celeste: a three-stone design framed with a halo, where the choice of metal really changes the character of the ring.
Still deciding on the setting itself? Our guide Solitaire, Pavé or Trilogy? Choosing Your Engagement Ring Setting walks you through the options. And once you have chosen your metal, IGI vs GIA: How to Read a Diamond Grading Report will help you choose your diamond with confidence.
Design your ring with Wave
There is no single right answer, only the metal that feels right for you and the person you love. If you would like a second opinion, we are always happy to help. Browse our settings and design your bespoke engagement ring with Wave, or start a conversation with us using the chat on this page. We will talk you through metals, diamonds and everything in between, with no pressure at all.