Few diamond cuts command attention quite like the marquise. With its distinctive elongated shape, pointed tips, and brilliant faceting, the marquise diamond has captivated jewellery lovers for centuries — and it's experiencing a very well-deserved renaissance.
A Royal Origin
The marquise cut has one of the most romantic origin stories in jewellery history. Legend has it that King Louis XV of France commissioned a diamond cut to mirror the perfect lips of his beloved, the Marquise de Pompadour. The result was an elongated, boat-shaped brilliant that bore her title — and the name has endured ever since.
What Makes the Marquise Cut Unique?
The marquise is a modified brilliant cut, typically featuring 56 to 58 facets that maximise light return and fire. Its defining characteristics are:
- Elongated silhouette — the shape creates an illusion of greater size, making it appear larger than a round diamond of the same carat weight.
- Finger-flattering proportions — set lengthwise on the finger, the marquise visually elongates the hand and slimmer the finger.
- Exceptional brilliance — its brilliant-cut facets deliver outstanding sparkle and light performance.
- Distinctive pointed tips — the two sharp ends give the cut its unmistakable, dramatic profile.
Choosing the Right Marquise Diamond
When selecting a marquise diamond, there are a few key factors to consider beyond the standard 4Cs:
Length-to-Width Ratio
The ideal length-to-width ratio for a marquise diamond is typically between 1.75:1 and 2.15:1. A ratio closer to 2:1 gives the classic, elegant marquise silhouette. Shorter ratios produce a wider, more oval-like appearance, while longer ratios create a more dramatic, slender look.
The Bowtie Effect
Most marquise diamonds exhibit a bowtie — a dark, bow-tie-shaped shadow across the centre of the stone. A slight bowtie is normal and even desirable, adding depth and character. A pronounced bowtie, however, can detract from the stone's brilliance. Always view a marquise diamond in person or via high-quality video before purchasing.
Symmetry
Symmetry is critical for the marquise cut. The two pointed tips must align perfectly, and both wings (the curved sides) should be mirror images of each other. Even a slight asymmetry is immediately visible to the eye.
Setting Styles for Marquise Diamonds
The marquise's unique shape lends itself beautifully to a variety of settings:
- Solitaire — lets the cut speak for itself; clean, timeless, and effortlessly elegant.
- Three-stone — flanked by tapered baguettes or trillion side stones, the marquise centre takes on a regal, architectural quality.
- Pavé or channel band — diamond-set bands add brilliance and complement the centre stone's sparkle.
- East-West setting — setting the marquise horizontally is a contemporary, fashion-forward choice that's growing in popularity.
Lab-Grown vs Natural Marquise Diamonds
The marquise cut is available in both natural and lab-grown diamonds, and both offer the same stunning visual impact. Lab-grown marquise diamonds offer exceptional value — you can often achieve a larger, higher-quality stone for the same budget as a natural diamond. At Wave Jewellery, we offer both options so you can choose what aligns with your values and priorities.
Is the Marquise Right for You?
The marquise diamond is a bold, confident choice. It suits those who appreciate jewellery with history, drama, and a touch of the unconventional. If you love a stone that makes a statement, elongates the finger, and delivers exceptional brilliance — the marquise deserves serious consideration.
Browse our marquise diamond rings or speak to our team about creating a bespoke marquise engagement ring tailored entirely to you.
Related reads: The Pear Shaped Diamond and The Asscher Cut Diamond.