If there's one diamond shape that has captured the hearts of a generation, it's the oval cut. Sleek, elongated, and bursting with brilliance, the oval diamond has become the defining engagement ring choice of the 2020s — and for very good reason. But its story stretches back further than you might think.
The Origins of the Oval Cut
Unlike the round brilliant, which was mathematically perfected by Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919, the oval cut is a relatively modern invention. It was created in 1957 by Lazare Kaplan, a Russian-born diamond cutter who emigrated to the United States and became one of the most celebrated craftsmen in the industry. Kaplan's genius was in recognising that an elongated version of the round brilliant could retain virtually all of the round's extraordinary light performance while offering a distinctly different, more graceful silhouette.
The oval cut is classified as a modified brilliant cut — it shares the same 58-facet structure as the round brilliant, arranged to maximise fire, brilliance, and scintillation. The key difference is its elliptical outline, which creates an elongating effect on the finger that many wearers find deeply flattering.
The Anatomy of an Oval Diamond
A well-cut oval diamond typically has a length-to-width ratio of between 1.35 and 1.50, though personal preference plays a significant role. A ratio closer to 1.35 gives a rounder, fuller appearance, while a ratio of 1.50 or above creates a more dramatically elongated look.
One characteristic unique to oval (and other fancy shaped) diamonds is the "bow-tie effect" — a dark, bow-tie-shaped shadow that appears across the centre of the stone when light fails to reflect back through certain facets. A well-cut oval will minimise this effect significantly, which is why cut quality matters enormously when selecting an oval diamond. Always view a stone in person or via video before purchasing.
Why the Oval Cut Is Having Its Moment
Oval diamonds have always had admirers, but their popularity has exploded over the past five years. Several factors are driving this:
- Celebrity influence — High-profile oval engagement rings worn by figures like Hailey Bieber, Kourtney Kardashian, and Ariana Grande have brought the shape into mainstream consciousness.
- The elongating effect — The oval's shape makes fingers appear longer and more slender, a quality that resonates strongly with buyers.
- Perceived size — An oval diamond typically appears larger than a round brilliant of the same carat weight, because its elongated shape spreads more surface area across the finger.
- Versatility — The oval pairs beautifully with virtually every setting style, from the simplest solitaire to elaborate three-stone and halo designs.
- The "quiet luxury" aesthetic — The oval's soft, organic shape aligns perfectly with the understated elegance that defines contemporary fine jewellery.
Oval vs Round Brilliant: Which Should You Choose?
Both cuts share the same brilliant faceting structure, so light performance is comparable at the top end of cut quality. The choice really comes down to personal style:
- Choose a round brilliant if you want the most classic, timeless look with the highest resale value and the most standardised grading.
- Choose an oval if you want something that feels modern and distinctive, appears larger on the finger, and suits a slightly more fashion-forward aesthetic.
One practical advantage of the oval: because it's a fancy shape (anything other than round), oval diamonds are typically 10–20% less expensive per carat than equivalent round brilliants, making them an excellent choice for maximising size and quality within a given budget.
Oval Cut Diamonds at Wave Jewellery
At Wave Jewellery, we offer a curated selection of IGI-certified oval lab-grown diamonds and settings designed to showcase the oval cut at its finest.
The Oval Diamond — IGI Certified
Our oval lab-grown diamonds are IGI certified and available in a range of carat weights, colours, and clarities. Each stone is selected for its cut quality and minimal bow-tie effect, ensuring maximum brilliance and fire. This 0.52ct oval in Colour E, Clarity VS2 is a perfect example of the shape's soft, luminous beauty.
The Hazel Ring — Oval Three-Stone
The Hazel Ring is our signature oval three-stone setting — and one of the most striking rings in our collection. Designed specifically to showcase an oval centre stone flanked by two matching oval side stones (totalling 1.40ct), the Hazel creates a wall-to-wall diamond effect that is nothing short of breathtaking. The clean, open basket setting ensures maximum light enters each stone, amplifying the brilliance of all three ovals simultaneously.
Viewed from above, the Hazel's three oval diamonds sit in perfect alignment — a unified sweep of light and fire across the finger. It's a ring that commands attention without ever feeling excessive.
How to Choose Your Oval Diamond
When selecting an oval diamond, keep these key factors in mind:
- Length-to-width ratio — Between 1.35–1.50 is the sweet spot for most wearers. Go above 1.50 for a more dramatic elongated look.
- Bow-tie effect — Always view the stone in motion. A faint bow-tie is acceptable; a strong, dark bow-tie will detract from the diamond's beauty.
- Cut grade — Oval diamonds are not graded for cut by the GIA (only round brilliants receive a cut grade), but IGI does provide cut grades for fancy shapes. Aim for Excellent or Very Good.
- Colour — Oval diamonds can show colour more readily than rounds, particularly at the tips. We recommend Colour G or above for a white appearance in white gold or platinum settings.
All oval diamonds at Wave Jewellery are IGI certified, available in both natural and lab-grown options, and can be paired with any of our ring settings via our Ring Studio.
Ready to find your perfect oval diamond ring? Explore our engagement ring collection →