The Princess Cut Diamond: Sharp, Brilliant & Endlessly Romantic
Few diamond shapes have captured the imagination quite like the princess cut. Bold, geometric, and dazzlingly brilliant, it has been one of the world's most popular engagement ring choices for decades — and shows absolutely no sign of stepping aside. Whether set in a sleek solitaire, surrounded by a diamond halo, or paired with a pavé band, the princess cut delivers a look that is simultaneously modern and timeless.
At Wave Jewellery, we work with princess cut diamonds across a range of settings and metals. Here's everything you need to know about this iconic shape.
What Is a Princess Cut Diamond?
The princess cut was developed in the early 1960s and refined throughout the 1970s and 1980s, becoming the second most popular diamond shape in the world after the round brilliant. It is a square or rectangular diamond with pointed corners and a brilliant-style facet pattern — typically 57 or 76 facets — that produces exceptional light dispersion and fire.
Unlike the round brilliant, which is cut to maximise light return from a circular shape, the princess cut retains more of the original rough diamond crystal — making it one of the most efficient cuts in terms of rough yield. This efficiency, combined with its spectacular sparkle, makes it outstanding value for money.
Key characteristics of the princess cut:
- Square or slightly rectangular shape with four sharp, pointed corners
- 57–76 facets for brilliant-style light performance
- Excellent brilliance and fire — second only to the round brilliant
- More affordable per carat than round brilliants due to rough yield efficiency
- Suits a wide range of settings: solitaire, halo, channel-set, pavé
- Ideal length-to-width ratio: 1.00–1.05 for a true square appearance
Princess Cut in White Gold — Clean, Contemporary Perfection
There is a reason the princess cut in white gold or platinum is one of the most enduring combinations in fine jewellery. The cool, bright metal amplifies the diamond's brilliance, allowing every facet to flash with uninterrupted intensity. The sharp, geometric lines of the princess cut feel perfectly at home in a white metal setting — clean, architectural, and utterly confident. This is the choice for those who want their diamond to do all the talking.
Shown above: Princess cut diamond solitaire in 18ct white gold — a Wave Jewellery signature style.
Princess Cut in Yellow Gold — Warm, Bold & Striking
The resurgence of yellow gold in fine jewellery has been one of the defining trends of the past few years — and the princess cut wears it beautifully. The contrast between the warm, rich tones of 18ct yellow gold and the sharp, angular geometry of the princess cut creates a ring with real visual drama. Yellow gold also offers a practical benefit: it can flatter diamonds in the G–I colour range, making them appear brighter and whiter than they might in a white metal setting — excellent value without any compromise on beauty.
Shown above: Princess cut diamond ring in 18ct yellow gold — bold, warm, and utterly striking.
Princess Cut in Rose Gold — Romantic & Modern
Rose gold brings a softness to the princess cut's sharp geometry that is genuinely captivating. The blush warmth of 18ct rose gold creates a beautiful tension with the diamond's angular lines — romantic yet modern, feminine yet structured. This pairing has become increasingly popular with brides who want something that feels personal and distinctive, rather than simply traditional. It photographs beautifully too, which never hurts.
Shown above: Princess cut diamond ring in 18ct rose gold — a contemporary classic.
The Celebrity Effect: Who's Wearing Princess Cut?
The princess cut has one of the most impressive celebrity pedigrees of any diamond shape. Its combination of modern geometry and maximum sparkle has made it a favourite among some of the world's most high-profile engagements.
- Kate Middleton (Princess of Wales) — While her famous sapphire ring is not a diamond, the Princess of Wales has been instrumental in driving interest in royal-inspired ring styles, and princess cut diamonds have benefited enormously from the broader "royal engagement" cultural moment.
- Hilary Duff — Her 14ct princess cut diamond engagement ring from Mike Comrie was one of the most talked-about celebrity rings of its era, and remains a benchmark for the shape's ability to carry serious carat weight with elegance.
- Avril Lavigne — Her princess cut engagement ring from Chad Kroeger was a stunning example of the shape in a halo setting, demonstrating how princess cuts can be amplified with surrounding diamonds.
- Emily Ratajkowski — Known for her bold jewellery choices, EmRata has been spotted wearing princess cut styles that speak to the shape's enduring cool-girl appeal.
- Kylie Minogue — A long-time admirer of geometric jewellery, Kylie's affinity for structured, architectural pieces aligns perfectly with the princess cut aesthetic.
The princess cut's appeal crosses generations and style tribes — it works for the classicist and the modernist alike.
Princess Cut vs. Other Square & Rectangular Shapes
| Shape | Brilliance | Corner Style | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Princess | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Sharp, pointed | Maximum sparkle, modern geometry |
| Radiant | ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Cropped, trimmed | Brilliant sparkle, safer corners |
| Emerald | ⭐⭐⭐ | Cropped, step-cut | Architectural elegance, hall-of-mirrors |
| Asscher | ⭐⭐⭐ | Cropped, step-cut | Art Deco, vintage-inspired |
| Cushion | ⭐⭐⭐⭐ | Rounded | Soft, romantic, vintage feel |
One important note on corners: The princess cut's sharp pointed corners are its most distinctive feature — but they are also its most vulnerable point. We always recommend a four-claw or V-tip prong setting that protects each corner, and advise clients to be mindful of the ring during physical activity. Properly set and cared for, a princess cut diamond will last a lifetime.
Natural vs. Lab-Grown Princess Cut Diamonds
The princess cut is one of the most efficient shapes to cut from rough diamond crystal, which means it has historically offered excellent value compared to round brilliants. Lab-grown princess cut diamonds take this value proposition even further.
A lab-grown princess cut diamond is chemically, physically, and optically identical to a mined stone. The only difference is origin — grown in a controlled environment rather than extracted from the earth. Lab-grown diamonds are typically 50–70% less expensive than natural equivalents, meaning you can access a significantly larger or higher-quality stone for the same budget.
At Wave Jewellery, we offer IGI-certified lab-grown princess cut diamonds alongside natural stones, so you can make the choice that aligns with your values and priorities. Book a consultation via our Ring Studio and we'll walk you through both options in detail.
What to Look for When Buying a Princess Cut Diamond
- Length-to-width ratio: For a true square, aim for 1.00–1.05. Anything above 1.10 will appear noticeably rectangular.
- Colour: Princess cuts retain colour more than round brilliants. We recommend F–H for white gold or platinum settings. In yellow or rose gold, G–I works beautifully.
- Clarity: VS1–VS2 is ideal. Princess cuts can show inclusions near the corners more readily than other brilliant cuts, so avoid SI2 or below unless you've viewed the stone carefully.
- Cut quality: Look for a table percentage of 65–75% and a depth of 64–75%. Symmetry is critical — an asymmetric princess cut will look off-square in the setting.
- Corner protection: Always ensure your setting has V-tip prongs or bezel-set corners to protect the vulnerable points from chipping.
Is a Princess Cut Right for You?
The princess cut is for those who love clean lines, modern geometry, and maximum brilliance. It's a shape that makes a statement without being showy — confident, precise, and endlessly elegant. It suits a wide range of hand shapes and finger lengths, and its versatility across settings and metals means it can be styled to suit almost any aesthetic.
If you're drawn to the princess cut, we'd love to help you find your perfect stone and setting. Visit our Ring Studio to explore your options with our team, or browse our engagement ring collection to begin your search.
Wave Jewellery — Handcrafted in the UK. Designed to last a lifetime.
Related reads: The Emerald Cut Diamond and The Radiant Cut Diamond.